A Tale of Three Shirts

Like many other seamstresses, when I find a pattern I like I tend to make it multiple times in different fabrics, refining and perfecting the fit as I go. Here is the story of one such pattern, along with some of the tools I used along the way.


I was inspired by a vintage dress pattern I saw while browsing Etsy, and wanted to create a similar shirt that was feminine and appropriate for work, without needing too much fabric. What I came up with was this cobbled-together combination of self-drafted and commercial patterns pieces, some of which have been sized up or down from the original as needed. The front and back bodice, front and back yokes, and placket tab were made by me, and the sleeve, peplum, collar, and collar stand are adapted from different commercial patterns that I already had in my stash.

The original bodice pieces (the ones with masking tape) were altered using the cut and slash method in order to create additional area at the top edge for the gathers, with the bottom edge remaining the original size. They are taped back in their original form for reference, so I know how tightly to make the gathers in my fabric. The resulting pattern pieces are in the top right corner. Here you can see where the bodice is gathered and attached to the round yoke pieces, which lie under the collar and extend downward to the 1st button.


In the picture below, you can (kind of) see the gathers originating where the bodice meets the yoke, but no gathering at the bottom edge where the bodice meets the peplum. This makes it possible to have the design element of the gathers, without creating too much volume in the shirt around the waist.


The peplum, the piece at the bottom of the shirt, also helps control the amount of volume at the waist. It is attached to the bodice around the waistline, and the bottom edge flares out a little to give some shaping to the overall silhouette. I think it adds a feminine touch by helping to define the waist and hips.

On these three shirts, the peplum, yoke, placket tab, and collar stand are lined in coordinating fabric. While this probably isn't necessary, I think it adds strength and a fun contrast when the lining peeks out.

Here's a rundown of some tools that I used to help in making these shirts.

A serger to finish the exposed seams:

A buttonhole foot to make the buttonholes. I have learned to go over the buttonhole twice in order to strengthen it and make it look nicer:

A bias tape maker to make a narrow piece of fabric to finish the armholes. On two of the shirts I didn't attach sleeves because I wanted to be able to easily wear the shirt under a cardigan without having to worry about the sleeves bunching. To make bias tape, you cut a long piece of fabric diagonally (on the bias), then feed it through this device while ironing as it comes out the other end, which folds in the cut edges towards the middle. You can then stitch it to the garment for a clean finished edge:

A button presser foot. This lets me avoid the dreaded handsewing by stitching the button on by machine, and it looks pretty neat on the underside too. This has to be one of my favorite presser feet of all time:

All of the main pieces of fabric used in these shirts were obtained at estate sales in the Olympia area. The lining pieces came from my fabric stash. So what if this fabric skews a little on the elderly side...it's nice quality and was cheaply obtained!


I will definitely be making more shirts out of this pattern. I have the fit nearly perfected, it's a cute style that looks good on me that I can wear to work, it doesn't take too much fabric, and it's relatively quick to put together. I may even make a dress out of it someday, just like my original inspiration.

Which version is your favorite?